Friday, 29 September 2023

South Tyrol 2013-2023

Last week I returned from yet another walking holiday in the autonomous northern Italian province of South Tyrol. Time for the traditional photographic report. At least that was the idea till I stumbled upon a forgotten draft post from the holiday in the same area 10 years ago. For various reasons, this message wasn’t published at the time. Though from a photographic point of view it was a far better year compared to this year! This was mainly caused by the pretty warm weather this year with the accompanying harsh Sun light and bright blue cloudless skies. Not good from a photographic point of view. So I decided to combine these two trips in one post. Using this years’ time line and a choice of the pictures from 10 years ago supplemented with pictures from this year’s trip where they didn’t overlap.

The outward journey to our holiday destination in Sankt Martin in Passeier.
On top of the Timmelsjoch in the early evening. After another journey marked with some long traffic delays.
But being late at least provided me with very nice light conditions at the top (2-9-2023).

Day 1: Sankt Martin in Passeier – Christl
A circular walk along the slopes of the Passeiertal, between Sankt Martin in Passeier and the small hamlet of Christl. Unfortunately it was Sunday, and the rural Gasthof Christl was closed this time.
The main entrance of the Schildhof Steinhaus,
a fortified farm house, Sankt Martin in Passeier (16-9-2013).

A view over the Passeiertal from the small hamlet of Egger (16-9-2013).

The Jaufenpass and the Jaufenspitz seen from the small hamlet of Christl (16-9-2013).

The rural “Jausenstation”or Guesthouse Christlhof in the small hamlet of Christl (16-9-2013).

One of the many markers for the extensive and generally
well maintained network of public footpaths in the area (3-9-2023).

Day 2: Sankt Martin in Passeier – Sankt Leonhard
Another circular walk and braving the hot weather. This time to the neighbouring village of Sankt Leonhard, where the Timmelsjoch and the Jaufenpass come together.

Sankt Leonhard seen from the hamlet of Auer (4-9-2023).

On the Andreas Hofer Weg near Barleit, halfway between Sankt Leonhard and Sankt Martin in Passeier.
Looking back towards the Jaufenkamm (4-9-2023).

The somewhat secluded Pfeiftal (4-9-2023).

Enjoying a well-deserved beer in front of our hotel (4-9-2023).

Day 3: Seeber See
Exploring the Seeber Alm and the Seebersee. As you can see in the pictures below, 10 years ago the conditions were excellent from a photographers point of view. Starting with two pictures from the parking area at the entrance to the Seeber Tal with the Gurgler Kamm behind it. Taken 10 years apart and clearly showing what I meant with the conditions!

(18-9-2013)

(5-9-2023)

Checking on the cows being herded down from the meadows in preparations for their winter stabling.
The 3037m¹ high Racinespitze clearly visible in the top left of the picture.
The summit of the 3405m¹ high Hoher First behind it is shrouded by clouds (18-9-2013).

The farm cat from the Seeber Alm Hütte (18-9-2013).

And probably one of its siblings making itself comfortable against my backpack 10 years later (5-9-2023).

Looking back towards the Seeber Alm and the Timmelsjoch (18-9-2013).

The Racinespitze standing guard over the Hinteres Seeber Kar (18-9-2013).

The 3037m¹ high Racinespitze, part of the Gurgler Kamm (18-9-2013).

The Grinolspitze shrouded in clouds (18-9-2013).

The Gurgler Kamm obscured by clouds (18-9-2013).

The flanks of the Grinolspitze shrouded in clouds (18-9-2013).

Day 4: Pfelderer Tal
A walk through the Pfelderer Tal, from Pfelders plan towards Lazins.

The “Maria Hilfe der Christenen” parish church of Pfelders Plan (19-9-2013).

In the woods above Pfelders Plan (19-9-2013).

A view along the Pfelderer Tal on the Ratschinger Weißen (19-9-2013).

Autumn colours in the woods on the flank of the Karkopf (19-9-2013).

Kreuzjoch (19-9-2013).

The Gurgler Kamm seen from the Panoramaweg,
running along the southern slopes of the Pfelderer Tal (19-9-2013).

Lunch break at the Faltschnal Alm (6-9-2023).

Looking into the Faltschnaltal (19-9-2013).

Lazinser Hof (19-9-2013).

Door lock from an old field barn (19-9-2013).

The late afternoon sun catching the front façade of the “Maria Hilfe der Christenen”
parish church of Pfelders Plan (19-9-2013).

Day 5: Sailer Tal – Wannser Tal
A lovely walk through the Sailertal, over the Seeberger Alm, through the Wannser Wald and into the Wannser Tal.

The Sailertal with the Seespitze in the background (17-9-2013).

View from the head of the Sailer Tal on the Jaufen Pass,
with a shepherd's shelter in the foreground (7-9-2023)

Wild horse on the Seeberger Alm with the flanks of the Seespitze in the background (17-9-2013).

Inside the Wannser Wald (17-9-2013).

The Mooser Alm seen from the Jäger Steig, or hunters climb (17-9-2013).

The sunlight catching the pine trees on the flanks of the Wannser Tal (17-9-2013).

A typical cable railway, used by the farmers to transport their produce to the through roads,
to be picked up for transport to the customers (17-9-2013).

Crucifix on the façade of Gasthof Alpenrose, along the N44 in Walten (17-9-2013).

Day 6: Urweg Jaufenkam
Walking part of the Urweg Jauffenkamm between the Römerkehre and the Glaitner Joch

Rinner Sattel (21-9-2013).

Route marker on the Rinner Sattel (21-9-2013).

A view from the Rinner Sattel, with the Passeier Tal obscured by clouds (8-9-2023).

Another obscured view from the Rinner Sattel (8-9-2023).

Glaitner Joch (8-9-2023).

A goat herd on the Glaitner Alm with the Gurgler Kamm in the background (21-9-2013).

View from the beer garden of the Fleckner Hütte.on the Tagewalder (2334m¹),
Verstadlspitze (2495m¹) and the Sarntaler Alpen in the distance (21-9-2013).

Lunch break at the Fleckner Hütte (8-9-2023).

Day 7: Sankt Martin in Passeier – Magdfeld
A local walk into the Kalm Tal

Standing guard, Trifterweg Neuhaus (9-9-2023).

Glamitz (9-9-2023).

The iron clad door of the main entrance of the Schildhof Obergereuth,
another fortified farm house in Sankt Martin in Passeier (9-9-2023).

Traditional home in the Dorfstraße, Sankt Martin in Passeier.(21-9-2013).

Day 8: Sankt Martin in Passeier – Mörre
An easy Sunday walk through the lower reaches of the Passeier Tal

The small village of Schweinsteg (10-9-2023).

Track through the narrow Sagbach gorge near Stauden (10-9-2023).

Traditional wooden barn in the tiny village of Mörre (10-9-2023).

The “Wallfahrtskirche Unserer Lieben Frau” in Mörre,
overlooking the Passeier Tal (10-9-2023).

Day 9: Vellauer Felsenweg
A walk from Dorf Tyrol, along the steep slopes above Meran.

A typical stretch of the Vellauer Felsenweg (11-9-2023).

View of the Vinschgau Tal (11-9-2023).

Only suitable without vertigo! (11-9-2023).

Schloß Tirol overlooking the end of the Passeier Tal (11-9-2023).

Day 10: Ultental
Along the Ultener Höfeweg, in the secluded Ultental.

A typical shrine in the woods above Sankt Nikolaus (23-9-2013).

Field track near the hamlet of Grubern (23-9-2013).

View across the Ultental from the hamlet of Eggertal (23-9-2013).

Field gate near the Gartlgürtl Hof (23-9-2013).

Nörderhof (23-9-2013).

View across the Ultental from the Nörderhof (23-9-2013).

Self-service bar with supervision, Nörderhof (12-9-2023).

View across the Ultental from the Nörderhof (12-9-2023).

Day 11: Stuls – Glaiten
A walk along the lower slopes of the Jaufenkamm. It was rather wet!

View from the hamlet of Melcher on the Passeier Tal with the Gurgler Kamm
and the Timmelsjoch in the back ground (13-9-2023).

Plenty of choice where to go, Stiegelberg (13-9-2023).

Homemade warning sign at the Niedersteinhof (13-9-2023).

Patiently waiting for the downpour to end, so we could reach the car without getting soaked.
Luckily we were sitting dry and were enjoying a decent lunch (13-9-2013).

Day 12: Seeber Tal
As the weather conditions had “deteriorated” we decided to return to the Seeber Tal. This time not for the Seebersee but for the much higher Scheibsee. The weather didn’t fully cooperate so we adapted the route so we would just stay away from the heavy rain.

Entering the Seeber Alm, with views of the Gurgeler Kamm in the distance (14-9-2023).

In the Seeber Tal above the Hinteres Seeber Kar with the Texelgruppe in the back ground (14-9-2023).

The Seeber Tal seen from the Sunnenbichl (14-9-2023).

The Seeber Alm with the Timmelsjoch in the back ground (14-9-2023).

Day 13: Matatzspitz
The plan was to walk from the Ulfastal to the summit of the 2178m¹ high Matatzspitz. Unfortunately the weather conditions (especially visibility) became worse the higher we got. In the end I had to make the decision to abort the ascent approximately 175m¹ from the top. The reason for this was a complete lack of visibility caused by low clouds and rather unstable conditions.

The Ulfastal obscured by clouds (15-9-2023).

A summit cross overlooking the Ulfastal (15-9-2023).

Heading down from the flanks of the Matatzspitz into the Ulfastal (15-9-2023).

Lunch at the Ulfaser Alm (15-9-2023).

Day 14: Meran
Exploring the spa city of Meran.

Passeiergasse Meran (22-9-2013).

Passeiergasse Meran (22-9-2013).

Pfarrplatz Meran (22-9-2013).

Winter Promenade Meran (22-9-2013).

The river Passer seen from the Gilf Promenade Meran (22-9-2013).

Beer garden, Winter Promenade Meran(22-9-2013).

Pfarrplatz behind the Stadtpfarrkirche St. Nikolaus (22-9-2013).

The Stadtpfarrkirche St. Nikolaus seen from the Tappeinerweg (22-9-2013).

View from the Pulverturm over the outskirts of Meran (22-9-2013).

Steinachplatz Meran (22-9-2013).

Closed business in the Hallergasse in Meran (16-9-2023)

Another closed business on the Winterpromenade in Meran(22-9-2013).

Day 15: Saltaus – Sankt Martin in Passeier
What should have been the final walk on Monday: With the cable car from Saltaus to the Klammeben (@ 1980m ASL) And from there over the Hinteregger Alm, the Mahd Alm, the Riffelspitz and the Pfandler Alm back to Sankt Martin in Passeier. As the weather forecast for the Monday was rather bleak we decided to move this walk forward one day.

The Hinteregger Alm seen from the Gampenweide (25-9-2013).

A view from the Hinteregger Alm across the Passeier Tal onto the Texel Gruppe (25-9-2013).

View from the Mahd Alm across the Passeier Tal onto the Texel Gruppe (25-9-2013).

An outhouse from the Hirzer Hütte (25-9-2013).

The Hirzer Hütte (25-9-2013).

The Hirzer Hütte overlooking the Passeier Tal and the Texel Gruppe (25-9-2013).

View on the Riffelspitz and the Passeier Tal in the back ground (17-9-2023)

Picking cranberries on the flanks of the Riffelspitz,
with the Passeier Tal in the back ground(17-9-2023)

A shelter on the Prantacher Mahder high above the Passeier Tal (17-9-2023).

Day 16: Sankt Martin in Passeier – Sankt Leonhard
The weather forecast for our final day was rather wet so we decided on a leisurely last walk to Sankt Leonhard for lunch. This way we would be back in our hotel with a few hours left to pack up everything for the journey home. It turned out the weather forecast was spot on, so the camera didn’t get out of the bag! Time for a few final pictures from both the 2013 and 2023 trips:

Catering and entertainment in Sankt Martin

During the summer on every Thursday evening there was a concert by local music bands. In the picture above an attentive audience is listening to the Stadtkapelle Bozen (19-9-2013). The music during our stay this year was thanks to the Musikkapelle Riffian and the Musikkapelle Sankt Martin in Passeier.

Setting up the all-important bar. No beer no music!.(19-9-2013).

The kitchen of Sankt Martin’s festival meadow on a Saturday evening (9-9-2023).

Gasthaus Lamm, our restaurant of choice during most our stay (15-9-2023).


In the “garden” of the Gasthaus Lamm (12-9-2023).


Gasthaus Lamm (16-9-2023).

Tovel See (20th of September 2013)
A leisurely stroll along the shores of the Lago di Tovel.

Dead tree branches in the lake’s crystal clear water.

Lago di Tovel.

The mountains overlooking Lago di Tovel partially obscured by clouds.

The sun catching the turquoise water of the lake.

Lago di Tovel.

A short stop on top of the Stelvio, on our way back to our hotel.

Getrumtal (24th of September 2013)
An easy walk along the Getrumtal and the Urlesteig.

View from the Pichlberg on the Getrumtal.

A typical shelter.

Contrast!

A meadow along the Urlesteig.

View on the Getrumtal.

Going Home (19th of September 2023)
All things come to an end, and after two and a half week it was time to pack the luggage in the car and head for home. Again the journey was hampered by delays due to traffic jams. First by a driver who managed to get his/her car on its side without any outside help in the Ötztal, a broken down/crashed truck in the worst possible location on the A8 in Germany and lots of road works of course. But these were still in the future when these two final pictures were taken on the Austrian side of the Timmelsjoch.




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