Friday 20 August 2010

Tour Des Alpes (part 3 of 3)

Day 5 (478 km)
This would be the start of our home journey, and as it turned out in the end, the longest driving day of the whole trip. Aim was to drive as far as the town of Thun in the heart of Switzerland to meet up with fellow TR7 owner Thomas. And as the Stilfsèrjoch was open, we incorporated that one in the route. But sadly before we reached that, we first had to endure a serious traffic jam. The only road through the Vinschgau valley was blocked due to an accident. With us stuck right in the middle of a tunnel with the air temperature and the engine heating up alarmingly. So nothing we could do but switch of the engine and sit it out. As a result of this we lost almost an hour. Sadly this also meant that by the time we reached the foot of the Stilfserjoch ...

The Stilfserjoch from above

The tourists were out in force. Anxiously waiting to spoil the fun as much as possible. Needless to say I took revenge on a few of them. Luckily the view up to the top remained as impressive as ever with the road snaking its way up the Northern side.

On the Stilfserjoch, between Kehre 21 and 20, Franzenshöhe

For the rest of the run up the Stelvio I can be very short, rather uneventful, even boring in the dense traffic. Only the engine tried to liven it up, by pretending to overheat a bit. But halfway up the temperature gauge’s scale, it remembered that it was built to be reliable. At the very crowded top I only slowed down briefly, enabling René to take a picture of the sign.


After which we quickly headed down the southern slope, where we stopped briefly near the old Italian border post to re-enact a picture taken 8 years earlier when we did the Stelvio with ‘t Kreng:

‘t Kreng near II Casa Cantoniera dello Stelvio, 3th July 2002

The same spot 8 years later, view over Val di Braulio

II Casa Cantoniera dello Stelvio, an abandoned roadman’s house
on the southern flank of the Silfserjoch

With the photo taken we continued with the  descent which luckily was much less crowded and thus more entertaining. So we made good time to the bottom off the pass from where we headed west towards Livigno and Switzerland. But before we could enter Switzerland, we first had to cross three more mountain passes, the Passo di Foscagno, the Passo d'Eira and the Forcola di Livigno. After which we entered Switzerland over the Bernina pass. As we still had quite a few miles to go till we reached Thun, we pressed on. We opted for the “shortest” route over the Albula pass, which turned out to be a very good choice indeed. As this pass isn’t on one of the larger through roads, it is still fairly quiet and unspoilt. But in true Swiss style the road itself is in mint condition, they even went to some length in inventing an original/period way to prevent speeding ...

Approaching the top, and the Albula Hospiz

A well deserved rest for man and machine on top of the Albula pass

Gasthaus Albula, math was not their forte 😜

Only to be reminded of the fact that Switzerland is not only very beautiful, but also very expensive compared to its neighbours!. At least it was a good lunch. And with the lunch and the discussion with the waitress over the bill finished, we headed down towards Thun.

Approaching the Lai da Palpuogna

But in between there were some more great driving roads, and not only mountain passes, as the Flimsersteintunnel illustrates. Actually the tunnel is an underground bypass of the H19 around the village of Flims.

The Hauptstraße H19 underneath Flims
or the Flimsersteintunnel

Although, due to the sometimes spectacular views, the mountain passes impressed most. And probably the best of them all was the Süstenpass ...

The Süstenpass from above

With beautiful flowing corners and a smooth road surface. Sadly René was so impressed by the scenery, that he forgot to take some more pictures from the navigator’s seat. Though these three pictures do give a good impression of the lovely scenery.

In good company on top of the Süstenpass

View of the Steingletscher, just past the top of the Süstenpass

On the H11, approaching the Alpin Center Süstenpass

As it was by now nearly six o’clock in the evening we pressed on towards our final destination for the day, the lake side town of Thun, situated at the north-western shore of the Thunersee, which looked very nice in the early evening sun.

The Thunersee, seen from the H6 running along its southern shore

In Thun we would meet up with fellow TR7 owner Thomas. I had phoned him from the top of the Albula pass, to tell him that we probably would be much later than originally planned. So to be sure that we wouldn’t have to sleep on the floor he decided to book us a room in a nearby hotel, again thanks very much for that. So as a reward for that we invited him for diner. Needless to say that the remainder of the evening was spent on food, drinks and (mostly) Triumph talk.

Day 6 (395 km)
The car waiting patiently in the parking
Gasthaus Rössli in Thun

Next day dawned quite early, and after a hearty breakfast we set of for the German border town of Bad Säckingen some 25 kilometres east of Basel. But not before I filled up the car with some decent 100 RON fuel. Was amazed to find that with over 478 kilometres and 8 mountain passes the engine had consumed only 46,5 litres of fuel. Very impressed with that.
We choose Bad Säckingen for the border crossing as there was no Motorway heading there directly, thus making the navigating that much easier (we didn’t buy a vignette, so had to keep of the motorways. I know thrifty Dutch 😝). But before we crossed into Germany we had a few hours of great flowing country lanes ahead of us. What the scenery lacked in spectacular views was more than compensated by the quality and layout of the roads. Fast road driving indeed!

On the Siehenstrasse (229.4) near Schangnau (CH)

And despite a few navigational errors we reached the German border near Bad Säckingen, just past noon.
Border post Bad Säckingen

From where we headed for the narrow Wehrtal and lots of other great driving roads through the heart of the Schwarzwald (or Black Forest for the non-German speakers J)

Bundesstraße B518 through the Wehrtal

But all these lovely roads eventually took much more time than planned, and by the end of the afternoon I called it a day. So instead of somewhere north of Kaiserslautern, we found ourselves a nice hotel in the little town of Appenweier, not far from Strasbourg, but still a fair distance from home. Here we put the car to rest in a hotel parking for the last time. While we spent the last night of the trip with some good local food and beer.

In the parking of Hotel Hanauer Hof

Day 7, going home (532 km)
The last day turned out to be very much like the first one. Not really worth remembering to long. While preparing to leave it started to rain, and this rain followed us more or less all day. As we still had a fair amount of kilometres ahead of us, we decided to use the Autobahn A5 till Karlsruhe. From here we switched to the Bundesstraße B48 which we followed through a very wet Pfalzerwald to Kaiserslautern, and from there towards Bernkastel-Kues for lunch.

Downpour on the Bundesstraße B48 through the Pfalzerwald
south of Kaiserslautern

After lunch in one the many small villages along the shores of the Mosel river, we headed toward Adenau, and the Nürburgring. We shouldn’t have done that. Scarcely out of the Mosel valley we met some road works, with a very un-German diversion. Yes of the variety that isn’t signposted correctly. As a result of this we were running in circles! And in true Eifel style the downpour began to liven it all up a bit. At least the hood once again proved to be pretty much waterproof.
To cut a long story short we managed to find our way to the Nürburgring and from there to the A1 and A61. Here the car again proved to be a very relaxed long distance cruiser.

Ever more familiar roads, on the Autobahn A1 near Mechernich (D)

Relaxed motorway cruising

And home in the end. Sadly most of the road grime she collected over the week was washed away in the Eifel downpour. So hardly any visible proof of the many hard kilometres had to endure!
Almost home

Boring statistics etc.
Total distance covered: 2825 kilometres;
Total fuel consumption: 265 litres;
Average fuel consumption: ±10.7 km/litre (or 30.2 mpg)

Looking back I have to admit that the car behaved pretty well, with pretty good fuel economy! But there were some issues that spoiled the fun a bit;
Firstly the grip of the Continental tyres is rather poor under braking (in wet and dry conditions). Although this could be caused by the Mintex pads biting to hard when cold?
And secondly not being able to rev the engine when needed was a bit of a disappointment, especially on the passes. The little skirmish with the M3 on the Jaufenpass clearly showed that the car can be quick and handles rather nicely (although the tyres will start to screech pretty quickly). But again I have a few small issues to sort in the coming weeks;
  • Fit other tyres and only use these for sedate events;
  • One side of the instrument lights stopped working (probably a loose or corroded contact);
  • Speedo's needle bounces up and down wildly (probably caused by corroded contact inside the speedo);
  • A slight water leak along the fuel filler cap surround;
  • And of course the oil leak from the water pump.
At least I don’t have to worry that I have nothing to do in the next couple of weeks. Will start on the water pump tomorrow!

The Passes
And to finish this report a list
of all the passes I  drove.
In driving order;
Fernpass (A) 1212m¹ ASL
Timmelsjoch (A/I) 2474m¹ ASL 
Ofenpass (CH) 2149m¹ ASL
Martinsbrucker Straße (A) 1461m¹ ASL
Reschenpass (A/I) 1504m¹ ASL
Jaufenpass (I) 2094m¹ ASL 
Timmelsjoch (A/I) 2474m¹ ASL
Penserjoch (I) 2211m¹ ASL
Jaufenpass (I) 2094m¹ ASL
Stilfserjoch (I) 2760m¹ ASL
Passo di Foscagno (I) 2261m¹ ASL
Passo d'Eira (I) 2208m¹ ASL
Forcola di Livigno (I) 2315m¹ ASL
Berninapass (CH) 2328m¹ ASL
Albulapass (CH) 2315m¹ ASL
Oberalppass (CH) 2044m¹ ASL
Süstenpass (CH) 2224m¹ ASL

Edited 8th August 2020: As it is 10 years ago that I was touring the Alps, for the “shake-down-tour” of my freshly restored DHC, I decided to freshen up the pictures using the original digital “negatives”. Also added a few extra pictures and edited the text where necessary.

Sunday 15 August 2010

Tour Des Alpes (part 2 of 3)

Day 3 (334 km)
This was to be the first “touring” day. Original plan was to head up to the Stilfserjoch (probably better known as the Stelvio) and return over the Umbrai. But after sitting in a traffic jam on the SS38 outside Meran for quite a while I decided to pull into a fuel station. While filling up the car with fuel, the attendant told me that the Stilfserjoch was closed due to heavy snowfall on its northern flank. So we needed a change of plan. As we already had lost quite a lot of time in the traffic jam we opted for a short trip into Switzerland, over the Ofenpass and then back over the Reschenpass. Especially the Ofenpass was good fun with very smooth road surfaces and nice wide flowing comers And again some very nice views at the top (and good food too!).

The Ofenpass from above

On top of the Ofenpass (CH)

On top of the Ofenpass, with the Piz Nair in the background (CH)

View from the top of the Ofenpass into the Engadin Tal (CH)

After lunch in the public house at the top of the Ofenpass
we headed down into the valley of the River Inn.

On the Hauptstraße H27 in the Inntal near Guarda (CH)

Which we followed right till the border with Austria. But instead of taking the Finstermünzpass we took a shortcut, a rather lovely and almost deserted pass road between the villages of Martina and Nauders.

The B185 or Martinsbrucker Straße from above

From where we headed into the Vinschgautal, and along the shores of the Reschensee and back to the B&B in St. Martin.

On the SS40 Along the eastern shores of the Reschensee just north of the dam (I)

As we passed the road leading to the foot of the north face of Stilfserjoch for the second time that day, we found out that they had cleared the snow there. So we decided to stop for a drink or two and see if there were some interesting cars coming down. Not much really, only grey Euro boxes and motorcycles. So nothing we could do but admire the drinks and the views instead.

View from the terrace of Hotel Post in Sponding

Dilapidated cottage along the Stilfserjoch Straße, Sponding

With the drinks finished we returned “home” to our B&B, only to find it was still way too early for the evening meal. And with the Jaufenpass only a few miles away, we thought it a good idea to go up there just for fun, which it was. As it was late in the afternoon most tourists had already disappeared. And as an added bonus there were some fabulous views at the top.

On top of the Jaufenpass with the Sarntaler Alpen in the background.

The DHC with the Wansser Tal and the Sarntaler Alpen in the background

Only problem (while heading down again) was the low early evening sun. As a result of which in some places visibility was rather poor, with the sun shining through the trees and straight into my eyes. Not good if you can’t see where the road is going. Another thing which we noticed on the way down was that the brakes clearly were starting to get on temperature, they could be smelled very clearly. So René thought that they were overheating. But it looks like the Mintex M1144 pads need some heat in them to work properly, as the feel of the brakes was much better than the previous days.

But that evening, while returning from St. Leonard, they were up to their normal standard again. While slowing down to allow some bikers (on foot) to cross the road, the brakes managed to lock up the front wheels rather dramatically. The bikers also saw the fun of it, once they had recovered from the scare!

Day 4 (226 km)
We had planned a trip back over the Timmelsjoch, through the Õtztal and up the Kaunertaller Gletscherstraße for this day.

Early morning start up the south slope of the Timmelsjoch
near Moos in Passeier

Short road tunnel near the top of the Timmelsjoch
underneath the Bankerjoch Alm

But after reaching the top of the Timmelsjoch we found out that the weather on the other side of the mountains wasn’t brilliant. As we were at the edge of a rain front, the light conditions were rather fine from a photographic point. So I decided on a short photo shoot of the car at the top of the Timmelstaler Urweg.

On top of the Timmelsjoch with the Jochköfele in the background

On top of the Timmelsjoch with the Stubaier Alpen in the background

On top of the Timmelsjoch with the Jochköfele in the background

View from the top of the Timmelsjoch into the Passeirer Timmelstal

After the photoshoot plan B was put into action. This plan consisted of driving to Bozen (Bolzano) through the Passeirtal and from there over the Penserjoch and Jaufenpass. Only problem we encountered was a filling station that didn’t deliver the fuel I paid for. Luckily that got sorted properly.
The drive up to the Penserjoch proved to be very nice, with the road gradually climbing out of Bozen through the narrow Sarntal, up to the pass itself.

The Penserjoch from above

At the top we encountered a German woman who was driving a lovely coloured modern Triumph motorcycle. And judging by her reaction to her friends rather sarcastic remark (“great you’ve chosen a colour from 1980”), she was not very pleased when I pointed her to my car a few yards away 😁

Lovely green Triumph Tiger

Time for a well-deserved simple but good lunch at the Gasthof Alpenrosenhof. Here we were also able to enjoy the fine views off the Egger Obertal

View of Gasthof Alpenrosenhof and.the Egger Obertal

View of the Egger Obertal

View of the Egger Obertal with the Funderer Berge in the distance

The sign at the top

After we had lunch and admired the views one last time we headed down towards Sterzing, and the foot off the last pass of the day, the Jaufenpass.

The Jaufenpass from above

On the way up to the pass road itself I was driving behind a modern BMW M3. As the driver was really hanging around I thought it a good idea to challenge him a bit ones on the pass road itself. He took the bait, resulting in a very nice blast up to the top of the pass. Jolly good fun indeed. The down side was that I lost nearly half a litre of oil in 25 kilometres! Made a mental note to keep the revs down.

As we had been on the top a day earlier we decided to drive on and stop a few miles down the road at a public house with a nice terrace overlooking the valley below and enjoy a few drinks and the views.

On the terrace of Gasthaus Alpenrose

View over the Passeiertal and the Kitzbichl

The small hamlet of Larcher on the flanks of the Nörderspitze

The initial plan was to stay there till we spotted the first Triumph that would come up or down the road. But after a few drinks we left the idea and returned to St. Martin, otherwise we might probably still be sitting there now! So we finished our drinks and headed back to Sankt Martin in Passeier, where we even had some time left to admire the wood works and the surroundings.
New barndoor, Dorfstraße Sankt Martin In Passeier

Not so new wooden staircase, Dorfstraße Sankt Martin In Passeier

Traditional woodwork, Dorfstraße Sankt Martin In Passeier

The small hamlet of Magdfeld in the early evening Sun
seen from our B&B in Sankt Martin In Passeier

The cemetery chapel, beside the parish church of Sankt Martin In Passeier
with the Jauffen Kamm in the background

 And to end a lovely day we were driven underneath the restaurant’s rain shelters
by a fairly heavy rain shower that managed to find its way into the valley!

Storm clouds building over the Riffelspitze, Sankt Martin In Passeier

Storm clouds shrouding the Riffelspitze, Sankt Martin In Passeier

Edited 8th August 2020: As it is 10 years ago that I was touring the Alps, for the “shake-down-tour” of my freshly restored DHC, I decided to freshen up the pictures using the original digital “negatives”. Also added a few extra pictures and edited the text where necessary.