During the past winter I replaced the door lock barrels
from ‘t Kreng. This was done to create a matching lock set for the ’76 restoration
project. Fast forward to the first drive of the year, and a problem reared its
head. Opening the driver’s door from the outside went as usual. But it was when
I stopped to take a few pictures, that I noticed something wasn’t as it
should. The driver’s door wouldn’t open in the normal way (pull the inside handle
and push the door open with the elbow). It actually needed a fair amount of
force to open. First thoughts were that something had come loose or that l had refitted
some of the parts in the wrong way.
Today I had some time for a closer
look into the problem. But after the removal of the door card I could only conclude that nothing
had fallen of, had come loose or had been fitted incorrectly. Time for a closer inspection
of the movement and action of the mechanism. Using the outside handle showed
that everything was functioning as it should. But when the inner door handle
was pulled, it was clear that the mechanism wouldn’t fully release the latch.
When pulling the inner door handle the arrowed
lever (B) should push the circled lever (A) down. To fully release the latch, the top
of lever A should be completely pushed down and hidden from view. But
with the inner handle pulled against its stop, half of the lever was still visible. What became clear though was the fact that there was a large amount of free travel
when the inner handle was pulled. Only at the last part of the handle's movement would lever B start to push the lever A down. Looking closely at the
action of the various parts of the mechanism showed that there was a lot of play
in the various parts of the mechanism. But also the connecting rod (arrowed C below) from the
latch mechanism proved to have a huge amount of play.
All this added up, and was enough not to release the lock from the inside. As I didn’t want to go to the shed I decided on
a little experiment, shortening the pull rod. So I cut of the bent part and put
a new hook on. Looked promising but even this minimal shortening proved to be too
much. With the handles escutcheon fitted the door would open at the lightest
touch. Not good! So I still had to make the trip to the shed, to find
another pull rod and a better lock and latch mechanism. Luckily I knew exactly
where these parts were stored, so within 45 minutes I was back home.
Swapping the “new” mechanism was straight
forward, as per the book! Though I did use the opportunity to remove the old plastic
spire nuts that hold the door handle in place, and replaced them with new ones.
Always nice to have these small parts in stock! And while I was at it I thought
it a good idea to also put new connectors on the door lights wiring. That didn’t
solve the light from not working though! But at least I again have a fully functional door locking mechanism.
And that left me with the final job for the day, refitting the door card
and the various trim parts. I have to admit that with the work finished, the
interior looked most inviting for a quick blast through the country!
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