Finally found
a few hours to work undisturbed on the heater. In my last post on this subject
I finally got round to closing the lid on the heater unit. So it was time to
get the linkage rods etc. back in place, starting with the air intake house. I
hadn't fitted this back to the heater yet, as it should be much easier to fit
the plastic lever to the main flap's spindle. This assumption proved to
correct, as it took some force to get the plastic lever back on the axle. And
this way I could easily support the opposite side of the spindle on a block of
wood. After this the housing could be fitted to the heater unit, and the other
bits could be added to this side. The metal lever was even easier, once I found
the picture showing me the orientation and position of the various rings that keep
it in its intended position:
The lever for the flap that directs the air to the footwells proved more difficult, as the
whole bulk of the heater unit was in the way while supporting it on a suitable
piece of wood. But after a few careful
blows with a copper hammer that too slipped into position without to much
problems. That only left the two connecting rods to finish this side of
the heater:
The other
side proved slightly more difficult. It started bad enough when I noticed one
of the pop-rivets keeping the dashboard levers in position had already torn
itself loose. In the end it took almost half an hour to drill them both out (just
to be sure!) and replace them with heavier items. Fitting the various levers
and connecting rods turned out to be fairly easy but time consuming. For
pushing (or hammering) the arms onto the flaps' spindles I again used my well
proven method. Support the flap's spindle on a piece of wood and push the lever
arm home with a suitable seized socket. In case of recalcitrant pieces a copper
hammer was used as extra persuasion. With all three arms in place it turned out
that two of the connecting rods needed some slight adjustment. Again as easy as
it sounds, loosen locking bolt, push flap in correct position and tighten locking
bolt:
And that
brought me to the last jobs for the day. The first of which was fitting and
connecting the wiring loom. Again glad I took lots of pictures when I
dismantled the heater in early 2017, otherwise it would have been much more of
struggle to get it all back together!
The last
job for the day was fitting the support for the bulkhead passage and seal. Most
time here was spent on searching for large outside diameter ø3mm washers for
the pop-rivets:
Only jobs
remaining before the heater can be returned to its rightful place are
fabricating new seals for the passage of the coolant pipes through the bulkhead
and the condensation drain on top of the transmission tunnel. Also need to find
some slim flexible coolant hoses to connect the heater to the bulkhead passage
...
2 comments:
Hello Beans
I have seen that you have the foam parts from the company Rubberhuis Maastricht for the Heather.
Could my colleague and I also order these? If so, do you have a contact ? The heating element is still complex I also have to make the heating Element and supply lines new - California TR7 no frost protection.
Are the heating elements with soldered tubes better than the original design ?
In any case I thank you for your answer and possibly your help.
By the way..
I have currently removed the tank and am scared looks like in the sea, reddish crystalline deposits. If you also have tips for this I am surely glad
Frank from Switzerland
Hi Frank,
Het Rubberhuis don’t do web or mail orders. They only supply from the counter.
And as they are an hour’s drive from home I only order from them when I have to visit one our plants, which is situated around the corner. But I presume that something similar can be found where you live (google is your friend!)
I used a local company (https://www.catchtank.eu/) to fabricate the alloy heater matrix. Just because the original set up is dependent on rubber seals that are no longer available. Or which are over 30 years old when find a set.
As for the fuel tank. There are lots of products available to take care of that. I had to clean and coat the inside of the tank for my ’76 car. And as always I source these products locally. Going to a good quality supplier will ensure you get the right product for the task.
Good luck with the work!
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