With the 10CR over and the worn front bearings on the DHC sorted I could switch my attention back to 't Kreng. Changing the water pump to be precise. For those who are familiar with the slant four engine know it is quite a lot of work. After draining the coolant you need to remove the inlet manifold so you can reach the pump cover;
With the inlet manifold removed it was simply a matter of taking the pump cover off. Luckily in my case I put some anti-seize-paste on it when I assembled this engine 11 years ago so it came off without any problem. Advantage here is that the cover was mounted with ordinary bolts instead of studs which were also used on TR7 engines. With the bolts removed from the cover you can twist it a bit so that it's easier to break any seal or bond.
With the inlet manifold removed it was simply a matter of taking the pump cover off. Luckily in my case I put some anti-seize-paste on it when I assembled this engine 11 years ago so it came off without any problem. Advantage here is that the cover was mounted with ordinary bolts instead of studs which were also used on TR7 engines. With the bolts removed from the cover you can twist it a bit so that it's easier to break any seal or bond.
The same applied for the pump itself, when I wanted to undo the nut on top it came out all by itself. Only the brass cage put up a bit off a fight. But that was fairly quickly solved. First the cage was loosened by tapping it with a hammer and drift to break the seal;
After which it could be levered out with two screwdrivers;
After which it could be levered out with two screwdrivers;
From then on it was all straightforward, cleaning all mating faces;
Putting new gaskets in and putting everything back together. I opted for the easy way (hopefully). As I had a fairly new used pump lying around I put that one in instead of reconditioning the old one.
Only things left for tomorrow is reconnect the carburettors and refill the coolant system.
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